She's Gone Walkabout

There is something glorious about an early cloudy morning. After leaving Long Jetty my first stop for the day was Norah Head lighthouse. There was a bit of a cool breeze but there was no chill to the air. The path to the lighthouse seemed to be a favourite with walkers.

The sky was dark and the sea choppy. It was a beautiful start to the day.

I drove along Elizabeth Bay Rd and stopped off at one of the many viewing platforms. A lone walker pushing against the wind walked along an otherwise deserted beach. Behind him tiny Bird Island and a freighter. All set with an incredible backdrop of rain darkened clouds and early morning sun.

I couldn’t resist calling into Cams Wharf.

My next stop was Belmont.

An all weather swimmer leaving the water at the end of the pier.

At Joes Cutting Rd 95 K from Port Macquarie the trees from the bushfires already green and rejuvenating. I noticed as I drove on the blackened bark from the trees falling away with the new growth vibrant underneath. It just goes to slow how amazing nature is.

Port Macquarie was my next stop. I sat down at the waterfront and had my lunch. It was nice, I thought the town would be bigger. I could see the massive grey clouds that seemed to have settled and I watched as a lone fisherman packed up his gear and headed off. I had the idea that if I was going to make it to Coffs Harbour maybe I should also be moving.

But before arriving at Coffs Harbour there was one place left that I just had to visit. Nambucca Heads.

It really is a beautiful part of the coast. With some amazing and very different street art

At Coffs Harbour for the night. The rain has keep me indoors so I hope to have a look around tomorrow morning.

The rain was down to an occasional spit this morning so I finally had the chance to do the tourist thing. I drove down to the foreshore, a whole 300 meters from where I had spent the night. There were surfers getting into their gear and some already in the water.

I decided to take a stroll along the breakwater. At the end of the breakwater there was a walk linking Mutton Bird island to the mainland. I had an overwhelming urge to put my feet onto the island. The spits of rain were becoming more frequent and I had no rain gear with me. I took the gamble. I’ll just put my feet on the island and then turn back. But the Forrest Gump in me just kept walking. I followed the path to the lookout on the island’s summit. The spotty rain was replaced with a brisk wind that blew and swirled around me. And the view, it was well worth the walk. On my way back I noticed the many Shearwater bird burrows. I had read about them on the boards at the entrance to the island but didn’t expect to see one. There must have been hundreds. Amazing.

A view from Mutton Bird Island.

Some Shearwater (Mutton Bird) burrows.

Coffs Harbour jetty

A sheltered beach

Leaving Coffs Harbour I couldn’t resist the temptation to stop and take a photo of the iconic big banana. Opened in 1964 it was one of the first big things (the banana) in Australia. The owner originally wanted something that could get people on the Pacific Highway to stop at his banana stall. I was amazed at how it has grown since then and what was now available. Apart from huge water slides, an ice rink, laser tag there is also cheese making workshops and candy making. I’m adding it to my list of things to do next time.

Many years ago a family I knew moved to Yamba so that was my next stop. It looked to me very much a fishing town, both professional and hobbiest. I liked the town. It had quite the country feel but also had a huge waterfront caravan park full of holiday makers.

It had its dramatic coastlines and serene beaches.

After the GPS took me to a closed road and a ferry that was no longer operating I abandoned my quest to see Ballina. But on the way back I found the smallest, cutest post office with equally small and cute outhouse opposite the Empire Vale Public school.

Byron Bay. Totally not what I expected. It was chaotic. The traffic,the people, the non existent parking. After driving around I felt like I was in the middle of a huge herd. Not game to stop moving and not knowing how to get out. I eventually made my way to the lighthouse thinking I could relax there for a few minutes but it was just as bad. No stopping, hooray, one park available. A quick look around a few quick photos and I headed back down into the herd again.

After finding my way back to the Pacific Hwy I put Hervey Bay into the GPS. Then the nearly non stop rain began, torrential at times. With the view through the windscreen one of white water and outlines of white I couldn’t find a place to stop and wait it out. I was tempted to take a road to somewhere, anywhere just to be able to get off the Highway. Finally a Pit Stop with a Maccas. Now I was able to do a bit of research and find what was nearby. I found that I was only five minutes from Pimpama. I escaped to its safety. After buying dinner I asked a young girl in the tavern if she knew of any local accommodation. She was precious. She didn’t but she looked them up for me, made a phone call and gave me the address of the motor inn in Coomera.

After leaving Cape Byron and the sea behind me I turned back onto the Pacific Highway and put Gympie in as the next destination. There were a dozen more places I would have loved to have checked out but I wanted to get to Hervey Bay by three o’clock.

The rain began again but not as severe as yesterday. There were short patches of the white rain but mostly it was a heavy soft rain.

After approx 330 kilometres of rain and road works it was nice to be able to stop and rest a while. I pulled into Gympie and looked for a supermarket. I drove down a Main Street under re-construction. Witches hats made it a narrow one way street. With the bobcats in operation I was beginning to regret turning on to the street but I couldn’t turn back. Three cars in front of me the little white car pulled over and stopped. As we slowly drove over the dumped dirt and rocks in the middle of the lane there was the little white car covered in red mud and the owner now standing beside it in utter disbelief. Her face seemed to read. WTF. I was so so grateful that I hadn’t been just a minute earlier and that it wasn’t me standing beside JenJen say WTF.

There was a walkway war memorial with several tiled plaques.

I had my lunch in the rotunda in the park. The rain spat down and I was beginning to think I was going to be trapped in the rotunda. It didn’t last long but I had spent longer than intended in Gympie.

Deciding I wouldn’t make it to Hervey Bay on time I decided to miss Maryborough and go straight to Hervey Bay. I missed the turn off and ended by going through Maryborough anyway. The GPS couldn’t find the new streets where I was headed and long story short it took a bit of alternative thinking but I finally arrived at my destination. And not too much behind time.

After a relaxing lunch overlooking the bay and cricket practice, we watched the nightly spectacle of the large bats on their flight to find food. The colony of bats was huge and it was several minutes before finally disappearing into the distance.

Bundaberg region-find the Spirit.

Friday and we drove the 100 k’s to Bundaberg. Coming into the area there was the sign. Bundaberg Region Find the Spirit. I thought it was quite humorous. Well we found the spirit and did a tour and rum tasting after we had lunch at the little cafe there. Couldn’t say I’d recommend the lunch. A cold pre packaged sandwich that cost $10:50 which left us feeling hungry.

A stroll through Bundaberg Rum‘s story from its inception in 1888, it’s first bottle being produced in 1889.

A chat to Bundy Bear, always a must

And our tour began

There was a generous wine tasting at the end consisted of a liqueur tasting and a top shelf rum tasting of choice. After three shots I was glad that I wasn’t driving.

With our designated driver at the wheel we headed for the Bert Hinkler museum.

Bert Hinkler was born in Bundaberg. He was a pioneer Australian aviator and inventor. He was always fascinated by flight and designed and built early aircraft. He was the first person to fly solo from England to Australia, and the first person to fly solo across the Southern Atlantic Ocean.

Unfortunately the museum was just closing as we arrived at four.

Separated from the museum by a piece of manicured lawn was Mon Repos, Bert Hinkler’s house. The house Mon Repos was named after the beach in Bundaberg where Bert Hinkler tested his home made gliders. This house was the house that Bert lived in in Sholing, Southampton England for the last six years of his life. The house was due for demolition to make way for a housing estate and was rescued and brought to Bundaberg. Bert Hinkler died in Italy at the age of 39 during an attempt to break the flying record to Australia. His plane crashed into a mountainside in Pratomagno Italy and he was buried in Florence, Italy.

Finishing the day at Scarness Beach. A walk before dinner at the Beach House restaurant and a walk along Scarness Jetty after dinner.

From the jetty looking back at the Beach House Restaurant.

At eight in the morning there was still a slight chill in the air as I was dropped off in Maryborough. There not being a lot open at that time I made my way to Queens Park. It was a beautifully kept area on the Mary River. At the front of the park a large war memorial area which was quite extensive and unique. There was a life sized statue of a lone soldier standing in a vast arena. The soldier was Lieutenant Duncan Chapman who was born in Maryborough in 1888 and was the first Anzac ashore at Gallipoli. He died a Major in 1916 at Pozieres France.

Behind the lone soldier is the story of the first world war on a walkway along a sheltered footpath. It winds its way down past a woman reading a letter from her son who is fighting on the western front, we pass another soldier the history of Charles Bean and the reason he instigated the National War Memorial in Canberra then on down to the original monument.

The Queens garden is extensive. Continuing on I walked around a 120 year old Banyan tree

Past the replica headstone of Charles Bidwell a botanist who lived at Tinana which is now a suburb of Maryborough from 1847 until his death in 1953. He discovered many new species of plant and as a result had several named after him. He died as a result of being lost in the bush while surveying a road from Wide Bay to Morten Bay.

At the back of the park a lily pond with a waterfall

Walking above the Mary River in the Queens Gardens. The Mary River has the traditional name of Moocooboola and was originally called the Wide Bay River. It was renamed the Mary River in 1847 by governor FitzRoy after his wife Lady Mary Lennox. Marlborough’s name came from the river when it was founded in 1847. During the second half of the 19th-century, the city was a major port of entry for immigrants arriving in Queensland from all parts of the world.

At nine I walked into the information Center in the old town hall. Luckily I had arrived just as a free walking tour was about to begin. The tours are held daily at 9 except for Sunday’s. For an hour and a half Carmen led us on a fascinating voyage through Maryborough’s past.

Carmen led us through flood levels – the bottom of the 32 being my head height

With stories of old cannons being fired at 1 every day to let workers know it was time to stop for lunch

and past old buildings. Thank you Carmen you are a real treasure.

After the tour I crossed at the lights to the Mary Poppins statue outside the renovated Australian Joint Stock Bank . The living quarters above the bank is where Helen Lyndon Goff aka Pamela Lyndon Travers was born.

The bank is a recently opened P L Travers / Mary Poppins museum.. I paid my $10 and spent a fascinating hour there.

It was simple but entertaining. P L. Travers sitting in a corner reading.

The bird lady

And the Captain.

After lunch with Jarrod I walked around town trying to find the 36 murals. I found several but that was it. This beautiful one is one of them

and this is another. It led me to finding out some fascinating information about the benefactor of the Archibald prize. He wasn’t a native of Maryborough but he spent some time working here and for a Maryborough company. His real name was John Feltham Archibald. He was the cofounder of the Bulletin Newspaper.

Now that’s a job with a difference