She's Gone Walkabout

In the dark this morning less than 2 kilometres from our nights rest we came to the old 100 kilometre marker. Graffitied, with the 100 kilometres barely readable it stands proud before the new marker just a few hundred meters later.

The clouds hung low in the valleys with a promise of what we were walking into.

Walking through mist shrouded farmland

Past many different Horreos, the unofficial symbol of Galicia. Horreos are granaries and used to store or ripen all types of farm produce and crops. They were most commonly used for storing corn.

We came to another sign for an alternative route. This time it showed dramatic pictures of the dangerous section we would have to navigate if we chose to continue on the original route. There were two alternates so we chose…the original. When we arrived at the dangerous section we looked down at the steep narrow passageway that was barely carved into the rocks and we thought…Oh well, at least we’re insured.

When we arrived to Portomarín, the city on the far side of the Rio Mino was barely visible in the morning mist.

Once on the other side of the bridge we were faced with a huge staircase to enter the city.

The church in the square of Portomarín was relocated in 1963 when the medieval village of Portomarín was flooded in the building of the Belesar Reservoir. The church has an interesting history. The temple was founded in the 12th century by the Cabaleiros de Santiago- the Military Order of Santiago’s knights. It has battlements which gives it the aspects of a fortress.

We left Portomarín over a smaller bridge that ran over the Rio Torres. The path then took us through pines and recently cleared land. It was a hard climb that took us up a long steep track to the Alto San Antonio which rewarded us with incredible panoramic views.

We spent a lot of time walking along roadsides

and down lanes along with the Camino aroma of dairy farms.

We stopped at Linodes after a 25k day And after our misty morning there was brilliant sunshine, the nicest day we have had for a long time. That evening we went down the road to Eirexe for what Foodie Dave considered to be the best pilgrim menu he has ever had. And Foodie Dave has had quite a few. Galician soup, followed by Galician Cod, finished with rice pudding.

It was a quiet day today. Only 10 kilometres to Palas de Rei. We stopped and put on the backpack covers after the drizzling rain looked like it was here to stay. We had no sooner started walking again when the rain stopped. We left the rain covers on ‘in case’. Palas de Rei’s name comes from Pallatium Regis, the palace of The Visigothic king Witiza. He reigned from 702 – 710.

The town was a lot smaller than I expected. It’s population of 3,600 is engaged in the dairy industry and the Ulloa cheese brand. Ulloa cheese is a soft cows milk cheese with a minimum 6 day maturity.

We only had another 15 k to do and on leaving Palas de Rei the distant sky showed promise of clearing. More country roads through pretty, small towns.

with beautiful old churches

and different Horreos.

An old headstone forming part of a fence with wash troughs and animal troughs.

Everyday life in Casanova

Country gates

A walkers shop with Camino badges among many things. Just what I was looking for. Handyman Dave sat on the seat opposite the shop as I debated for far longer than necessary which ones to buy. There were just too many to choose from. A man was trying to affix a Correos (equivalent to Auspost) Box to the brick wall of the walkers shop but he kept dropping it. Handyman Dave left his seat and gave him a hand. Thanks Handyman Dave.

The closer we came to our destination of Melide the heavier the drizzly rain became. We estimated our arrival time and dispensed with putting on our rain jackets. Our backpacks were covered and that was the important thing. Finally arriving at our chosen Albergue we were told that due to an emergency it was closed but they would take us to a similar one nearby. On arrival we were very pleased with the alternative accommodation. A nice street view and an all important way marker right across the street

Walking with only street lighting or a head lamp to guide the way has its own beauty.

Half light

the early morning mist

and the brilliance of the early morning light

We passed through pretty villages

Through eucalyptus plantations that smelt like home

Along pretty country roads

Through many country towns

Along roads

Through the large town of Arzúa with its mix of the old

and the new

On paths through vine entangled trees

and chestnut groves.

Once we entered dairy country with the bit of rain that we had been having the local laneways became slushy with the distinct aroma of…well…dairy cows.

Disappointed Dave walked slowly past the bar decorated with bottles. He would love to be able to add his name to one and place it in the fence. But walking and beer don’t really go together and he still had a long way to walk. Disappointed Dave lingered, torn between conflicting emotions. Maggii had now disappeared around the bend in the street. Damn, he slowly moved on.

We walked on through interesting towns with novelty shops.

and cute laneways

We neared our destination. We didn’t realise that the Albergue we had chosen was approx 500 meters off the Way and downhill. We decided to take the chance. Wrong decision, We hadn’t booked and they were booked out. We trudged on back up the hill and back on our Way. Two more albergues. The first one I wasn’t impressed with so I went across the road. The second one looked empty with a sign to say wait here. For what and for how long? As we were leaving the hospitalero came from next door. I asked if he had wifi. Yes certainly, I asked if the showers were hot. The last albergue the shower water didn’t reach body temperature and I wanted a good shower. I didn’t think it was too much to ask for. Apparently it was. We were told with an outward wave of the hand to pist. We walked on through woods and lanes.

Until we came to what I would call an Aussie pub. The Andaina n the road coming into Santa Irene catered for pilgrims and made us feel right at home. I had the best shower that I had had for a long time and the best dinner which included Pimientos de Padron. So, so, nice.

When we finally stopped we had covered 30 kilometres, a lot more than we had intended. It now put us just 19 kilometres to Santiago and the Cathedral. We revised our plans and decided to walk in tomorrow a day ahead of schedule.

Walking towards Santiago this morning I had mixed emotions. Our journey was coming to an end and I didn’t really want it to.

After leaving our lovely little pub the Andaina I wondered at the significance of the Collingwood scarf hung on the tree. Had this pilgrim finally given up on his team or were they giving the scarf as an offering in the hope of heavenly intervention.

Today a roadside village of mushrooms

and grapevines growing inside and over an old house

The tide of pilgrims seemed to have swollen this morning. It is very difficult to be alone. There is feeling of excitement knowing that the Cathedral is within the days walk.

From Monte de Gozo there is an inspiring view of Santiago.

Along the road over a cracked pathway down a long series of steps and we were suddenly at the bridge that crossed us into suburbia.

A Templar Peregrino stands watch over the constant stream of passing pilgrims.

The sign letting everyone know they had at least arrived in Santiago.

But we still had a long walk to reach the Cathedral. The signs were easy to follow. And suddenly our first glimpse of the beautiful lady that had been our destination for the past five weeks.

On the way in several languages carved into the footpath. Europe was made on the Pilgrim road to Compostela.

And then Divine Dave and I arrived at the plaza in front of the Cathedral. Divine Dave turned to me and kissed me. Surprised I asked him what that was for. Divine Dave replied. We made it.

The Cathedral was stunning. After a five year restoration of the face of the Cathedral it looked immaculate. It has to be one of the most amazing places. There is still a lot of restoration work being done which I am happy to see and one day I hope to return to a fully restored Cathedral.

We found our way to the pilgrims information office from where the Compostellas are issued. After a confusing..what is happening here..we were directed outside down the steps to the waiting room from where the ticket numbers were issued. We were issued with ticket numbers 1030 and 1031. Then we were told there would be about a four hour wait before our number would be called. We looked at our watch. That should make it about 7 o’clock. Big sigh.

We walked back from the cathedral looking for somewhere to have a wine and dinner while we waited out our four hours. David bumped into Heidi. Now this would have to be the perfect way to end our journey, with friends that we have met along the way. David, Heidi and Kelly and Kelly’s husband who had joined her in Santiago were having a beer or two at the bar across lane. It was a wonderful end to our walk into Santiago. I now no longer regretted the end of our incredible journey.

Yesterday we had also heard from Casey and Jurie who had already walked on to Finisterre and were now in Muxia. After a heartfelt goodbye to our Camino friends we sat down at the terrace of a bar and had our wine. We met a couple of women from Devon, England who had walked from Porto, Portugal. We also met a young man from St. Petersburg, Russia. The Camino is a real coming together of people of all ages and nationalities. Sara from Boston who we had met several times along the way but had not seen for the past three weeks walked out of the bar we were sitting at. She had just had dinner there. So lovely to catch up again. Can Santiago get any better.

After we had our dinner we walked back and waited in the waiting room of the pilgrims office. We watched the numbers on the board, 950 seemed to stay forever. Suddenly it ran through to 1000. Thirty or more people, us included, rose and made our way back up the stairs. We arrived excitedly to find they were calling…980. Several minutes later a loud cheer went up from the waiting group as 1000 was flashed up on the screen. By 8:45 we were finally out the door, Compostelas in hand.

By the lights of the night we wandered around the Cathedral.

and the plaza, before finally heading home.

We are a couple of days ahead of schedule but better than being late, so we had a rest day today. We had a couple of items on our agenda for the day. 1. Try again to find Javier the photographer in his trench coat and hat. 2. Get information on the walk to Finisterre. Both were located at or near the Cathedral. We found the information on our impending walk but not Javier. We visited the Cathedral and found that the entry was under renovation. But it wasn’t just the entry that was being renovated. The interior was in the process of being rejuvenated and everything was covered in plastic and scaffolding. Because of the limited space now available inside the Cathedral visitors were crammed into the small remaining area. The gold relic of Saint James was still available but the line to see it snaked around four deep. We didn’t stay.

We exited and Subject Dave returned one last time to look for Javier. Third time lucky and Subject Dave caught up with Javier the photographer we had first met at Roncesvalles. When the after photos had been done he asked Subject Dave if he could write a paragraph or so on his thoughts about the journey. That will be one very difficult paragraph.

On the two days that we have been here there has been a film crew in the plaza and the pilgrims office. We were told that this year there has been a huge increase in the number of pilgrims walking the Camino Frances.

At the approach to the tunnel that leads to the main plaza of the Cathedral there is always one beggar. In the tunnel there is always a bagpiper. The Spanish bagpipe is known as a Galician Gaita or in Spanish, Gaita gallega. It has been a popular instrument in Galicia since the 9th century.

We wandered the streets around the Cathedral. So many amazing buildings.

we found markets

and beauty everywhere

even in the surrounds

Opposite the bus terminal we found the Biblitoca Publica – Public Library. What an amazing building both inside and out.

On our way home after an incredible mix of the old and the new

We bumped into Gerhard and his wife. His wife had arrived in Santiago to spend a few days with him before heading home. I had said could Santiago get any better? It just did.