She's Gone Walkabout

We left Riego de Ambros in the dark with one head lamp between the two of us. It may not have been our wisest move. As soon as we left the town centre we were diverted onto a steep shale covered decline that really was only suitable for mountain goats, especially in the dark. As the sun slowly rose we felt a little safer and we were thankful that it was a dry morning.

The views from the goat track made it more than worthwhile and coming into Molinaseca, beautiful. The first church we encountered was the Sant Nuestra Senora de las Angustias. It has been given steel doors because of an age old tradition. Pilgrims and Galician harvesters on their way home from Castilla would take a splinter from the churches door and leave their sickles as a token to the virgin. And because of this there was a need to protect the temples doors.

We cross Rio Meruelo on the pilgrims bridge.

through to the old stone cross known as Saint Christ Cross on Calle Real -royal street- which is the most important street in Molinaseca.

As we walked down Calle Real a woman roasting peppers which is one of several traditions of the area.

The old Stone Cross at the end of Calle Real.

Leaving Molinaseca a monument with a difference.

Before arriving at Ponferrada a sign to a Roman Fountain. I took the detour and even though there was no sign to say it was the Fuente Romana, I think this must be it.

More beautiful towns and old buildings. Here a local stopped to talk to us. His English was as good as my Spanish. From what I understood he was inviting us to his Casa. He was a lovely man but we declined and walked on.

The yellow arrows through Ponferrada led us to what is known as the Castillo de los Templarios. A huge castle that we couldn’t resist visiting. It has a huge history. It began as a Templar Castle to help protect pilgrims on their journey to Santiago. Over the centuries there have been several significant modifications. Now there are huge restorations, necessary but not completely in keeping with the original castle. I just wish we had had more time to explore it fully.

After leaving suburbia our walking paths led us through abandoned buildings

and along roads some overgrown with blackberries. Thorny Dave suddenly lost his hat, he turned around to find it had been taken by a blackberry vine. As he tried to retrieve his hat he found that he couldn’t move backwards or forwards as his backpack had become entangled by another vine. Poor Thorny Dave had to be rescued.

Camponaraya where we stayed last night was far larger than I expected. Heading out in the early morning light was easy with the abundance of street lighting.

We passed Vinas Bierzo advertising wine tasting tours for pilgrims at €1.50. -I think at 7:30 we may have been a tad early. Just past the winery there is a water fountain and rest area. The modern water fountain has a foot button control for the water.

Walking out through a variety of vineyards. There were grafted vines, old vines, some being harvested and some using rocks.

Cacabelos a pretty town that was an important medieval pilgrim town and still is with several albergues and hostels. It has a museum of Roman artefacts found at a nearby Roman town.

We continue over the Rio Cua and past a huge ancient olive press on display along the road.

Coming into Pieros I looked for an old wooden cross that would reference me to the hills behind the cross but I didn’t find it. In the hills behind the cross was the City of Castrum Bergidum home to the Asturians. The city was later conquered and occupied by the Romans. This sign post is at Pieros.

The light on again off again rain that had been playing with us for most of the day began to get a bit heavier as we entered Villafranca del Bierzo. We weren’t staying here and in the rain we didn’t take the time to look around. In medieval times Villafranca was sometimes called the little Santiago. Pilgrims unable to continue their journey were able to receive absolution here, the same as they would in Santiago.

Pereje another old town. I always wonder what is in these abandoned homes. Usually nature has taken over again. Here I found old wagon wheels

But not all homes are abandoned.

Before arriving in Trabadelo we walked under huge overhead roads. Some went over valleys and towns.

We made it to Trabadelo and after booking our accommodation we went for a walk. At Casa Susi a bit of home.

The old church At Trabadelo dates from the 9th century. The hills above Trabadelo were once home to outlaws that prayed on the innocent pilgrims.

Hungry Dave decided he would like fish for dinner tonight. I read the menu. Do you want salmon, hake, tuna or trout. Doesn’t matter Hungry Dave replied as long as it’s a fillet.. The waitress didn’t speak English and we didn’t know the Spanish for fillet. We decided on the trout…maybe not the best fillet choice but it sure was nice.

We left Trabadelo on the mountain road that was the towns main road. The road continued through several small towns.

One of the small towns, Ambasmestas, is where the Rio Balboa flows into the Rio Valcarce that we had been following and criss crossing for a large part of the day.

The road wound under huge motor ways that passed over valleys and entire towns. At Ruitelan a double motorway.

Near Las Herrerias we nearly missed the turnoff from the road. Two pilgrims disappeared around a bend in the road as we approached. There was a small yellow arrow on a post . It wasn’t the sign we had become accustomed to. We pause and did up our shoe laces. A pilgrim walked past and we asked him. He checked his GPS. Oh glad you told me he replied. This turnoff is the right way. A woman also uncertain approached. There had been a Camino sign and we had missed it. We all decided to go with the guy and his GPS. We made the right decision. From Las Herrerias if booked in advance a horse can be ridden over the steep rocky incline to O’Cebreiro.

Half an hour after leaving the peaceful village of Las Herrerias we turned to the left off the road down a steep path. This was the beginning of a gruelling two hour climb over and around rocks, stones, mud and horse poo to O’Cebreiro. Just before reaching the town we leave the region of Castilla and León and enter Galicia.

As Horseless Dave climbed steadily and slowly upwards he began thinking that a wise man would have begged, borrowed or stolen a horse for this part of the journey. As we entered O’Cebreiro Horseless Dave finally found not one but several horses but now having reached his destination it was too late for them to be of any use to him.

Just past the village wall of O’Cebreiro we come to one of the earliest surviving buildings on the Camino, the old church of Santa Maria Real which dates from the 9th century. Next to the church is a bust and many plaques of commendation and respect for Elias Valiña Sampedro. He was a parish priest and it was his idea to mark the Camino Francis with the yellow arrow that now along with the scallop shell as become a symbol of the Camino.

There was an icy wind and still quite early so we continued on down the mountain. The views were spectacular and at Alto San Rogue a larger than life statue of a medieval pilgrim bracing against the wind.

At Hospital de la Condesa we stopped for the night and that evening went to the only bar in town for a great pilgrims menu. During dinner a procession of cows walk past the door and down the road for milking.

It was an interesting day today. After watching a mist shrouded sunrise we reached Alto Poio at 1,335 meters. We then had a decision to make-again.

We decided on the original route which ran along the top of the mountain instead of taking the road. We thought we would get a better view. We didn’t. But we didn’t regret our mountain walk. It included walking through infrastructure works and a breakfast of blackberries.

When the two routes joined we walked down amazing country lanes with equally amazing views..

In Ramil a huge old chestnut tree still bearing fruit -or nuts.

Triacastela was once a town of three castles but they no lounger exist. Triacastela has always been an important stop for pilgrims and once had several hospices. The parish church has an unusual 18th century tower on which is carved an image of the three castles.

As we leave town we pass what was commonly known as Casa du Pont. It was the old Smithy which also doubled as a pilgrim inn dating back to the 16th century.

Sun dappled country roads and lanes lead us past an unusual rest area with a huge scallop shell.

It wasn’t much later that we realised that we had missed our option place of abode for the night. In fact not many towns seemed to have names. I didn’t know where I was. When we came to San Xil I had a feeling it was going to be a long day. Our day at times was incredibly beautiful.

We walked down country lanes

and past siesta taking dogs.

Nearly 30 kilometres for the day and Grateful Dave was, well, very grateful when we arrived at a nice pension in Pintin.

After our unexpected long walk yesterday we didn’t rise til 7. Often we would be leaving by now. After a cafe con leche and a croissant we pried ourselves out of the door at 8. I felt a drop of moisture and held my hands skyward. No no the owner said no rain. It only took 10 minutes for the weather gods to prove her wrong. Thirty minutes later we donned or waterproofs as the no no rain persisted. Thankfully it was only light.

Once again we followed the yellow arrows down billy goat tracks.

Through old towns and dairy farms in the no no rain.

As we entered Sarria, a detour. The old bridge was having what appeared to be a major upgrade.

Scallop shells

and murals lined our walk

We came to the old granite steps that lead to the old part of town

The once vibrant pilgrim mural now just a shade of its old self

Sarria the starting point of many. Those with limited time often begin here. It is approximately 110 kilometres to Santiago. To receive a Compostela you need to walk at least 100 kilometres so it is the perfect starting place.

The Torre de Sarria. This 14th -15th century fortress was built on top of the original 12th century castle

The no no rain gave us a bit of respite and we walked around the old city wall. There was a local market being set up and we bought a few nectarines for a second breakfast.

The old monastery as we left Sarria

Locals. The old dog looking back to make sure she is still behind him. He paused at their gate as she walked in ahead of him.

More locals

Moss covered sone fences

Not a huge walk today but the no no rain persisted until we had stopped for the day. We are in the very small town of Morgade in a lovely casa. And it was Early To Bed Dave today. Think he is trying to catch up on a bit of lost sleep. He has been socialising a bit to hard lately. The sign out front says it all.