She's Gone Walkabout

Multi lingual Dave is feeling very happy with himself. After only two weeks in Spain he is starting to pick up the lingo. He now knows the words vino tinto and his accent improves after an evening of practice.

We began our day to another brilliant sunrise. Couldn’t resist showing this one. It was a clear foggy morning and quite cool. The last couple of days had only reached 17 & 18 degrees but it had felt a lot warmer.

Near Espinosa del Camino we came to the last of the ruins of the 9th century Monasterio de San Felix de Oca. The founder of Burgos Count Diego Porcelos was buried here. Beside it is an old way marker. To me it looked like an elaborate shepherds hut but was obviously far more substantial in its heyday.

Saw this cute little creature in a burrow by the side of a path between a busy road and a river. Bigger than a mouse but not a big as a rat. I’m guessing King Kong mouse. A bit of a stalemate ensued. We waited or him to come out further and he seemed to be waiting for us to leave. He won. We moved on.

Villafranca Montes de Oca situated at the foot of the Montes de Oca was once a wild place and notorious for bandits. From here we were on a long steep uphill path of white rubbly stones and rocks. We passed between dark mysterious forests of pine and ancient oak.

At the high point of Montes de Oca there is the Monumento de los Caidos. This is more than just a monument. Here lie the shallow graves of many who were executed during Spain civil war of 1936 – 1939. On the monument is the inscription

No fue inútil su muerte, fue inútil su fusilamiento

Their death wasn’t in vain, their execution was

Some special moments from today’s walk.

We spent last night in Atapuerca. The prehistoric caves of Atapuerca have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. Fossils were discovered here during the laying of a railway line and excavation of the site began in 1964. Since then some fossils have been dated back to 800,000 years ago. This makes the site the oldest discovery of human settlement in Europe.

After leaving Atapuerca the trail was along a hard rock and boulder path. For over 2 kilometres it followed the old wire fence line of a military zone. In the breaking morning light we came to the high point and The Cruz de Matagrande.

We travelled through several old towns and past many fields of sunflowers. In a small church in the town of Cardeñuela Riopico a one of a kind alter.

As we entered the town/suburb Villafría to our left below the bridge a large railway station with freight trains and shipping containers stacked high. To our right the old town could be seen with its church and unusual five bells. This was the last we saw of any township. We walked on pavement through industrial and commercial areas. For over ten kilometres it was a continuous and monotonous walk with no break for our feet

Even once we had entered the city of Burgos it was still over an hours walk before we came to the old part of town. The signs were scarce and sometimes a little confusing but once again with the help of locals we were pointed in the right direction. Finally near our destination we looked up to see Burgos Cathedral. I had forgotten just how majestic it was.

A few pic of Burgos.

It was Sad Dave tonight as we said farewell to our friends of the last few days. Many glasses of vino tinto and many meals later and it was time for farewell. Tomorrow they would be moving onto Belorado a 30 k journey while we would only be doing our 21 k to arrive at Hornillos del Camino.

Burgos and we woke later than normal and finally out on the street to see it had rained overnight. I put on my rain jacket just in case even though it looked like the rain had stopped. But false alarm the street had been washed down. It was a good mistake though and I appreciated the extra warmth.

On our long walk out of Burgos we saw what appeared to be an archaeological dig. It was behind a set of old steps. Revisited Indiana Dave and I climbed the steps to have a better look. Satisfied we headed back down. I missed my footing and unable to right myself began a tumble downwards. In true Indiana Dave style Indiana Dave grabbed me by the backpack- he insists it was by the backside – and stopped me in mid tumble. God I’ve done it now. I looked down to see an empty iPad cover in my hand. Oh no. Several steps down, there was the iPad, facedown. My iPad I motioned to Indiana Dave as he tried to sit me right way up. In my minds eye all I could see was it’s smashed screen. Thankfully my iPad was intact and it was then that I felt the incredible pain in my left thigh. I stood, limped down the steps and limped away. Ego just as bruised as my leg.

Just out of Burgos near the town of Rabe de las Calzadas the Meseta begins. The Meseta is the central Spanish tablelands. The Camino Francés winds its way though approximately 220 kilometres of Meseta. Rabe de las Calzadas a pretty town with an unusual fountain and some extraordinary murals.

On the Meseta and the change of scenery was incredible and beautiful.

A cold chilly wind blew us into Hornillos del Camino and a 13 degree day. As we arrived the on again off again drizzle that had accompanied us for the last three hours turned into a light rain which lasted for over an hour. Pilgrims arriving after us left pools of water on the reception/kitchen floor.

Another cool crisp morning. Yesterday’s temperature didn’t make it past 13 degrees but the nights temperature wasn’t much lower at 10 degrees. We were only doing 20.4 k today and no rain forecast so it should be an easy day. My thigh was feeling marginally better so, bonus.

We arrived to Hontanas and I immediately wished I had stayed here. The sign coming into town declared that two of the towns albergues had been designed by a man who had completed the walk three times.

Five kilometres later and we came to the ruins of the convent San Anton founded in 1146 under the patronage of King Alfonso VII. They were dedicated to the care of pilgrims. Since 2002 once again there is a pilgrims albergue operating here. There is no electricity, no hot water and no wifi. A great place to truly get the feeling of the Camino from not so long ago.

With 10 kilometres to go the wind was crisp and blustery, then with 5 k still to go a strong cold wind. It was meant to reach 19 degrees but I don’t think it quite made it. Maybe out of the wind but the wind was vicious. Mostly it was a side wind and for a couple of kilometres a tail wind. Even in town there was no respite. It swirled around corners and chased us everywhere we went.

Castrojeriz with the ruins of a castle on top of the hill. The castle believed to have been originally Roman then Visigoth completed with medieval walls. It has an enthralling history of murder, captivity and betrayal.

It has been Drug Free Dave today. For the first time since blister no.1 arrived there was no Panadol breakfast.

Groggy Dave needed an extra nudge to get moving this morning. Jean a vino tinto loving German lass from Frankfurt had wooed him with an empty glass and a promise of free flowing vino. A couple of hours later and Groggy Dave finally made it to bed.

We left Castrojeriz in the early morning light and it wasn’t long before we realised we had one good climb ahead of us. We reached the Alto at 1050 meters before heading down on a 18% grading. I’m sure I read that the Meseta was flat.

On the way up one of the hills this morning and an abandoned boot or maybe lost with a fantastic view of the valley below.

Three climbs and several kilometres later through fields of wheat and barley stubble and sunflowers close to harvest we came to a small building near a bridge. San Nicolás de Puentelitero Hospital de Peregrino, a small donativo with 12 beds. This 13th century building has been restored but with no electricity, no phone and lit by candlelight only. A ritual washing of the feet is offered here.

Just past San Nicolás Hospital is the bridge Puente de Iteros which once marked the historic border between Castile and León. It has twelve arches that have been updated several times since the original bridge was built by Alfonso VI. It crosses the Rio Pisuerga and we follow the Camino across the bridge. Our path runs along the river until we reach Itero de la Vega. After leaving the village we cross he canal Pisuerga. Along the river and canals there is extensive irrigation with crops of maze, lucerne, wheat, broad beans and swede.

At Boadilla de Camino a rest area and an unusual fountain. A wheel on the outside of a long low stone ‘shed’ and turned several times anti clockwise It produces a small stream of cool drinking water.

We leave Boadilla de Camino on tree lined farm tracks and begin to follow the Canal de Castilla. After crossing the canal at one of its many locks we arrive at Fromista.