She's Gone Walkabout

Before we had even left Roncesvalles Photographer Dave already had a queue of pilgrims waiting to be photographed and throughout our days walk he seemed to be the go to man.

The start of our walk was gentler today as we followed the Way along roadsides and along moss covered stone fences.

Three kilometres from Roncesvalles and the Camino skirted around Burguete. Burguete has an interesting history. Apparently there was a coven of witches in the nearby forest of Sorgintzaren and during the inquisition of the 16th century several of the witches were burnt at the stake. David told me that I had to be very careful here. It is also local legend that Ernst Hemingway stayed here at the Burguete hostel. In his novel ‘The Sun Also Rises’ the characters of Jake Barnes and Bill Gorton have a meal in the dining room of the hostel.

After Burguete we left the roadside behind as we headed inland towards Espinal.

Cows and farm gates reminded us that we were walking through farming land.

We stopped for a chat with a group having a morning break before we all moved on.

The scenery was constantly changing today. From open farmland to a forest of tall slender trees that had us walking over sun dappled paths,

and across makeshift bridges.

Though it was an easier walk today it still certainly had its moments with plenty of variety. It was a 21.9 k walk. About 5 hours walking 1 hour of photography

We had our photos taken today for a human interest story on how the Camino changes people. The researchers are going to meet us in Santiago de Compostela and take after photos. Note to self put on makeup before arriving in Santiago de Compostela.

We left Zubiri this morning in the last of the morning fog via the Puente de la Rabia or the Rabies Bridge. Legend has it that hearding animals around the main pillar three times would cure them of rabies. This came from the belief that a local saint, Santa Quiteria, was buried beneath the bridge.

A unique foot bridge that David couldn’t resist crossing even though he really didn’t have to.

At Zuriarn we crossed the Rio Arga and followed the Rio in the same direction but at a distance to once again cross the Rio Arga outside of Pamplona.

Just as not all bridges are the same not all fountains are alike but unless they state that they are not potable they usually have cool fresh water. This fountain ran into a trough, though I can only guess at what the water trough could have been used for.

We went casual today. Peregrino Dave felt like the real deal when he found a staff on the side of the road. By lunchtime we had changed into our teva’s (with socks) as Peregrino Dave had found a small toe on one of his blisters. We had a discussion about what the collective noun was for more than one blister. Some of the suggestions were a forum, a family and I suggested a pain of blisters.

A long purpose built set of steps that brought us up out of the valley. The steps didn’t make the climb any easier but then I didn’t experience the trail before the steps were constructed. Maybe if I had I would have been grateful for the steps.

So much is so beautiful along the Way.

By the time we finally reached Pamplona Peregrino Dave had realised why his staff had been left by the side of the road and he in turn left it for someone else. I also had a thought that at this rate the staff may very well make it to Santiago de Compostella. With the temperature hitting 30+ degrees Peregrino Dave had also ditched the bottom legs of his pants.

We arrived to Pamplona’s old city through parkland and to the imposing old Wall of Pamplona. We then followed the path around the corner to the left ,

to an entrance complete with drawbridge.

Pamplona has an incredible history. It began as a Roman city Pompaelo which was built on the site of the Basque village of Iruna in 74BC. From the 4th to the 8th century it was ruled by the Visigoths – Germanic people who displaced the Romans-. It was then under Muslim rule for around 50 years until Charlemagne lay siege to the city and placed it under the control of his allies.

The old city is beautiful and worth more than the afternoon that we had to explore it.

We left this morning down a golden Pamplona street. It was 6:30 and already there was a line of pilgrims to follow. Not that it was hard to traverse the streets out of town. All you had to do was follow the scallops imbedded in the sidewalk.

With a brilliant sunrise behind us we looked to the horizon and the wind turbines that we would be climbing to. It has been a very long hot summer this year. The sunflowers even though they have wilted have been given a golden glow as they face the early morning sun. Over their heads our destination of Alto de Perdon.

Half way to the Alto de Perdon and a stark reminder that not everyone has their dreams fulfilled. There are many monuments along the way to those that have started and never finished.

Still a long way to go, but getting closer.

Love you too.

Low on lung power and with tight calf muscles we arrived at Alto de Perdon. It has to be one of the most awesome sights on the Camino. On one of the silhouettes is engraved

Donde se cruza El Camino del Viento Con el de las Estrellas.

Where crosses the the path of the wind with that of the stars.

The Alto gets its name from the Basilica and hospital which once stood here. The 13th century Basilica was dedicated to Nuestra Senora del Perdon (Our Lady of Forgiveness). It was later destroyed by Napoleon’s troops. This monument was built in 1996 on the site of the former Basilica and hospital.

The staff in David’s hand is a loaner. A pilgrim insisted that David pose with the staff for the photo to give him a more authentic look. It was the perfect prop.

Coming down the steep rock filled track from Alto de Perdon with my toes jammed into the ends of my boots I was hoping that I didn’t catch Blister Dave’s blisters.

Safely down the mountain at Uterga with another chance to refill our water bottles with cool fresh water.

At Obanos, this unusual monument.

The bridge at Puente la Reina silhouetted on the Arga River.

This is how to party.

Proud of Blister Dave today. After having his feet patched up he walked 23.8 K’s up to Alto Perdon and then down to Puente de Reina.

We left this morning over the 1000 year old Roman bridge Puente de Reina or Bridge of the Queen. The bridge spans the river Aga in the town of the same name.

After a long arduous climb out of Puente de Reina and 7 1/2 k’s later we were rewarded by Cirauqui, a well preserved Medieval town.

We walked today on a section of the best preserved Román Road on the Camino. It passed an ancient olive grove, some of the trees said to be 500 years old.

And a sign at the Roman road…

Is that all…

Masseuse Dave offered to use his massage skills to loosen up my tight calf muscles so I didn’t pass on that. I’m hoping now for a repeat performance.

We left Estella this morning just before dawn. The morning broke on heavy dark clouds reminiscent of yesterday but with a crisper morning air. The breeze was a little heavier but it made for good walking weather. I was looking forward to arriving at the Bodegas Irache winery with its on tap wine and water.

The landscape mellowed a bit today. The uphills weren’t quite as dramatic and arduous, but the scenery again, amazing. We walked along farm tracks through farmland, vineyards and groves of olive trees.

After leaving Cruce and in the middle of nowhere about 7 K from Los Arcos we came across a heavenly haven in Cafe Movil. A cafe con leche served with a muffin €1.50 and a chance to remove our shoes to cool our feet.

We checked into our accommodation and Poor Dave found a vending machine at the albergue. Four times Poor Dave put his €1 into the vending machine at the albergue trying to get a coke and all he kept getting was beer. He was persistent but eventually he had to admit defeat.

The Inglesia de Santa Maria de Los Arcos XIIth C is the center piece of Los Arcos. It is a workable mix of Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Classical elements.

And after sharing our Bodegas Irache wine with friends from the way the only other way to end a day in Spain was with Paella.