She's Gone Walkabout

Having a good nights sleep in a real bed, ahhh the joys of travel. Been in the air and on the road for nearly 40 hours. Had one big oops moment when Distracted Dave nearly did my Camino serious damage today. At the bus changeover in Soria on our way to Pamplona he pulled his backpack out from the jumble in the bus’s hold grabbed a black backpack and headed for the next bus. I threw David’s backpack into the hold and as Distracted Dave began trying to wedge ‘my backpack’ in the real owner was desperately trying to take it off him. Well it looked the same he countered. Well yes Distracted Dave they were both black. And she was taking the other bus so it would have been a huge oops. Why was he distracted? His mind was on other things like finding a toilet in The 10 minute changeover time as our bus didn’t come with the luxury of a toilet. In fact it had definitely seen better days.

Now the last leg of the journey but that can wait until tomorrow when we catch a bus from Pamplona to St Jean Pied de Port.

Pamplona is beautiful. Arrived late left early but did the tourist thing. Checked out the bull ring and this magnificent monument. I was happy to see the bulls winning.

Bussed it too St Jean Pied de Port, France, found the pilgrims office and became official pilgrims.

It was hard work for Dozy Dave. Checked into our accommodation and then checked out the town.

Met the rudest man I have met for a long time today in SJPdP and he was a bloody Aussie. Saw another Aussie today. A galah and he was on the shoulder of a bloody big galah that was walking him through the busiest part of SJPdP. Go figure!

This walk that we are beginning today as well as being a religious pilgrimage is also a UNESCO world heritage site.

Overnight Dozy Dave had morphed into Eager Beaver Dave and was awake at 4:30 and raring to go. We waited until daylight and as we walked under the gateway and onto the bridge over the river Nive the town bell struck 7:30.

The gentle walk out of town lulled us into a false sense that this first part of the walk wasn’t going to be too bad after all.

Along part of the Way there were also the white and red route markers that mark the French long distance walks. The marks lead walkers across the GR (Grande Randonnees) that Criss cross France. And after all, our walk begins in France. Here someone has added their own thoughts.

Though the walk was ‘challenging’ the views made it worthwhile and gave us an excuse to stop and give our lungs and legs a break.

Looking to the distance and the path still to travel.

Seven k’s mostly up and the mist that hung around all day gave the mountains an extra magic.

A gruelling 31/2 hours after leaving SJPdP we finally arrived. We had taken it slow and easy and arrived at Orrison where according to Fitbit we climbed 188 floors in 7 kilometres. Orrison a 16 year old purpose built Albergue. Only open from April 1 to October 20 due to bad weather and snow during the colder months.

Several minutes after leaving Orrison this morning the sun rose majestically over the mist covered mountains

A full sized statue of Mary and baby sits high on a rocky outcrop 50 metres from the trail.

Fenced grazing land soon gave away to open mountainside and small farming hamlets dotted the nearly barren mountains.

The tinkling of bells was the one constant today. Cow bells, horse bells and sheep bells. With a heavy band of cloud creating floating mountains the Pyrenees puts on a spectacular show.

We walked over a variety of trails today from small paved roads to tracks that were barely visible to well worn paths.

Approximately one kilometre before the Fontaine de Roland is a man with a van. He offers cold drinks and snacks and the last Camino stamp in France. A very welcome sight. At the fountaine we took the time to refill our water bottles and to have a break.

From just past the Fontaine de Roland the Camino runs along the Spanish side of the French Spanish border untill it reaches the Col de Bentarte.

After the equivalent of 215 sets of stairs we arrived at Col de Bentarte. After a good breather and an eye watering view we had a discussion with several other walkers. We had been told vehemently at the Pilgrims office not to take the 3 kilometres of steep rubble strewn track, but to take the sealed road. Four years ago there had been no such warnings and I had taken the track. Feeling invincible I decided to do it again and hope there had been no drastic change to its condition. About half way down Poor Dave’s legs felt like jelly but we made it without drama to Roncesvalles. And Poor Dave was rewarded with his first blister, albeit a small one.

The long building to the right dates from the 12 century and is a funeral chapel where masses were said for pilgrims who died at the monastery’s hospital.

Roncesvalles. A village with a huge old monastery several restaurants and a massive pilgrim albergue. It’s sole purpose it seems is to cater to pilgrims and tourists. It has a permanent population of less than 30.